Two ways to start a custom order — and what happens next
Most workwear procurement teams arrive with one of two situations. Either they hold a reference fabric or garment they want to match (or partially upgrade), or they have a performance requirement but no existing sample. The starting point determines the entire development path.
Path A — You have a reference sample
- Send a fabric cutting of at least 10 × 10 cm
- We analyse yarn count, weave density, GSM, and dyeing method
- Quote is based on matching the same greige or the nearest equivalent
- Development proceeds to lab dip or hand-print strike-off
- You can request an exact match or specify upgrades — e.g. better colour fastness, lower shrinkage, added DWR finish
Path B — You have a spec or end-use brief
- Share your target weight (GSM), fibre preference, and key performance criteria
- We shortlist 2–4 constructions from our existing range based on use case
- You receive physical samples to evaluate before committing to development
- Suitable when you are building a new product line without a reference
- MOQ and lead time depend on whether a matching greige is already in stock
Both paths converge at the same production process once the lab sample is confirmed. The main difference is how much development time is needed upfront.
The full development and production flow
Below is the complete sequence from initial enquiry to final shipment. Each gate requires explicit client sign-off before the next stage begins — this is where most lead-time delays occur, so fast feedback at lab stage directly shortens your overall timeline.
| Stage | What happens | Client action required |
|---|---|---|
| 1. Sample analysis & quote | We measure yarn count, weave density, GSM, weave structure, and dye class from your reference cutting. Quote is issued based on matched or equivalent greige. | Send ≥10 × 10 cm reference; confirm target quantity and any performance upgrades |
| 2. Lab sample | Solid-colour fabrics: lab dip produced on the same or equivalent greige. Camouflage and printed fabrics: hand-print strike-off (see our ripstop pattern guide). Both types can be produced on the same greige base or a close alternative if the original is unavailable. | Approve or reject colour/print; specify any adjustments |
| 3. Spec confirmation | All performance parameters are locked before bulk begins: colour fastness grades (rubbing, washing, light), shrinkage tolerance, tear strength, any functional finish (WR, SR, OR, PFC-free DWR). Contract is signed at this stage. | Sign off on agreed spec sheet and contract |
| 4. Bulk production | Greige weaving → piece dyeing or printing → finishing (calendering, coating, functional treatments). For non-stock constructions, yarn sourcing precedes weaving. | — |
| 5. Bulk confirmation sample | Two metres of bulk production are dispatched to the client. Simultaneously, our in-house lab runs a full test suite against the agreed spec: colour fastness, shrinkage, tear strength, abrasion, and any finish-specific tests. | Confirm bulk sample; review internal lab report |
| 6. Final inspection & shipment | 100% piece inspection covering width, GSM, surface defects, and shade consistency. Passed rolls are packed per agreed carton/packing spec and shipped. | Approve inspection; confirm shipping details |
Choosing the right fibre blend: performance trade-offs that matter
The fibre composition of a ripstop construction determines nearly every downstream performance outcome — industrial wash durability, abrasion resistance, breathability, colour fastness, and cost. The three blends most commonly specified for workwear ripstop each suit a distinct end-use profile:
100% Cotton
- Best breathability and skin comfort; preferred for hot or humid working environments
- Accepts FR chemical treatment well; suitable base for flame-retardant workwear
- Higher shrinkage risk — pre-shrinking or sanforizing during finishing is essential for industrial wash specs
- Colour fastness on deep shades (navy, black) requires careful dye selection; achieving rubbing fastness Grade 4 wet on reactive-dyed cotton is challenging
- Lower abrasion resistance than nylon blends at equivalent GSM
T/C 65/35 (Polyester/Cotton)
- The most balanced option for general workwear: combines cotton comfort with polyester’s dimensional stability
- Shrinkage is significantly lower than 100% cotton; easier to meet industrial wash (EN ISO 15797) dimensional change limits
- Colour fastness is easier to achieve on the polyester component, especially for dark shades
- FR treatment is possible but less efficient than on 100% cotton — needs to be confirmed with the finish supplier
- Good cost-to-performance ratio; most accessible MOQ and lead time
Nylon/Cotton 50/50
- Highest abrasion resistance of the three; suited to heavy-duty trades (construction, military, tactical)
- Nylon content improves tear strength significantly — important for ripstop constructions under high mechanical stress
- Less breathable than pure cotton; slightly heavier hand feel
- Dyeing requires separate dye classes for nylon and cotton components — process complexity raises cost vs T/C
- Not the standard choice for FR applications; nylon melts rather than chars
Brands specifying mobility alongside durability can add spandex or T400 to any of these bases for stretch. The choice of stretch fibre matters for laundry compatibility — see the FAQ below for details on temperature limits.
Supplier perspective: where orders go wrong and how to avoid it
The most common source of delays is not production — it is specification gaps discovered after lab sample approval. Clients confirm the colour but have not yet agreed colour fastness grades, shrinkage tolerance, or packaging spec. We then need to re-open the contract negotiation after bulk has started. The fix is simple: lock all performance parameters and packaging details before signing off on the lab sample, not after. A sourcing checklist covering GSM, weave density, key fastness grades, shrinkage limits, and finish type takes 20 minutes to prepare and saves 2–3 weeks of back-and-forth.
A second pattern we see regularly: buyers issue spec sheets with requirements that are technically incompatible — for example, demanding rubbing fastness Grade 4–5 and light fastness Grade 6 simultaneously on a 100% cotton ripstop in a dark navy. These targets can conflict with each other depending on the dye class. We flag this during the quote stage, but buyers who receive quotes from multiple suppliers without this conversation are comparing numbers that may not be achievable. The right supplier raises the constraint; the wrong one accepts the spec and delivers something that fails on test.
Finally: bulk sample confirmation matters. Sending two metres of actual bulk production — not a lab re-run — gives you and your QC team a physical check against the approved standard before the full roll count is committed to packaging. It is not a formality. Shade drift between lab and bulk is real, particularly on reactive-dyed cotton in mid-depth tones.
FAQ
What is the minimum order quantity for custom ripstop fabric?
For standard constructions where we hold matching greige in stock, MOQ is typically 3,000–5,000 metres per colour. For constructions requiring custom weaving — whether because of a specific yarn count, weave density, or fibre blend — the MOQ rises to around 10,000 metres, since the greige must be woven to order. In some cases, where a specific yarn is not commercially available, production starts at the spinning stage, which adds further to the minimum.
How long does production take from lab sample approval to shipment?
For standard ripstop constructions with in-stock greige: 15–20 days from lab sample approval. For constructions requiring custom weaving — whether from stock yarn or with yarn sourcing — 40–50 days. These are production times only; development time (swatch analysis through to lab sample sign-off) is additional and depends on how quickly feedback rounds are completed.
What specs should I include in a ripstop sourcing checklist?
At minimum: fabric weight (GSM), fibre composition, weave construction (plain ripstop, Oxford ripstop, 4×4 grid, etc.), yarn count (warp and weft), weave density (threads per cm or inch), colour fastness requirements (rubbing — dry and wet, washing, light — with target grades per ISO 105), shrinkage limit (warp and weft separately), any functional finish (WR, SR, OR, PFC-free DWR, anti-static, FR), and packaging spec (roll length, core size, carton dimensions). For industrial wash applications, specify whether EN ISO 15797 or ISO 30023 compliance is required.
How do I test ripstop fabric for industrial wash durability?
The relevant framework is EN ISO 15797, which simulates commercial laundry conditions — higher temperatures (up to 75°C), mechanical action, and industrial detergents including chlorine bleach options. Testing typically covers dimensional change (shrinkage), colour fastness after repeated cycles, appearance (pilling, surface distortion), and tensile/tear strength retention. For workwear targeting healthcare or food processing environments, chlorine bleach resistance is particularly important — this favours polyester-dominant blends or chlorine-resistant stretch fibres such as T400 over spandex.
Does adding spandex to ripstop affect industrial wash performance?
The primary risk with spandex in industrial wash is heat, not chemistry. Spandex degrades at relatively low temperatures: in wet conditions (washing, steaming) it should not exceed 110°C; in dry heat (tumble drying, pressing) the limit is around 180°C. The critical factor for workwear is how the garment is dried after washing. If the laundry process uses a tunnel finisher — a continuous heated drying tunnel standard in large commercial laundries — temperatures regularly exceed the wet-heat limit for spandex, and fibre degradation and loss of stretch recovery will occur over repeated cycles. In that case, spandex should not be used, and alternatives such as T400 or EOL-type fibres are more appropriate. If the laundry operation uses conventional tumble dryers at controlled temperatures, spandex can survive industrial wash cycles without significant degradation, provided temperature limits are respected. Before specifying a stretch blend for industrial wash workwear, confirm the drying method used by the end customer’s laundry contractor.
What abrasion resistance rating should I specify for high-durability workwear?
Abrasion resistance in workwear fabrics is commonly tested by the Martindale method (ISO 12947) or the Wyzenbeek method, reported in cycles to breakdown or a defined level of wear. For general workwear, 20,000–30,000 Martindale cycles is a baseline. For heavy-duty applications — construction, mining, industrial maintenance — 50,000+ cycles is more appropriate, typically achieved through higher-density weaves, nylon content in the blend, or abrasion-resistant coatings. Specifying abrasion target alongside the intended use case (rather than a number in isolation) allows the supplier to recommend the construction most likely to pass, rather than simply reporting whatever the base fabric achieves.
📖 Looking for a complete overview? Read our guide: Ripstop Fabrics for Workwear